Thursday, October 17, 2013

Desert life

I forgot what it felt like to have sand caked in my hair, resting in my ears, and stuck underneath my contacts. It wasn't until I got back home, took a shower, and was still finding sand, that I realized I missed the desert. Heavy loads and long approaches, hot days and freezing nights, and some of the longest burliest sandbagged routes anywhere. Moab will destroy you. 
Last weekend I spent three days in the Moab area, I was very nervous about not having enough endurance for the long vertical offwidth routes, all the offwidths in Vedauwoo are around 30 feet, in Moab it's more like 150 feet. 
Day one we went to a vertical offwidth called "Offwidths Are Beautiful", it's a Craig Luebben route so disregard whatever difficulty grade he gave it and get ready to suffer, the route goes through about every size of offwidth in about 150 feet. 
The route felt very comfortable, it's slightly less than vertical and offers many nice rest, although repelling down the route I realized that none of my cams were any good, they were more than tipped out, and acting more like stoppers, my two big bros were the only good pieces I had placed. 
On the second day we went to Indian creek and climbed a line called David, it's completely vertical and zig zags all over. It was a really beautiful line! 
Day three Pam took me up to a line called "Slither And Scream", this was by far the hardest line I climbed in my short trip, after 100 feet of painful bad knee locks it flares to a squeeze chimney then tightens up through a roof, I literally did slither then scream like a banshee moving out of the roof on a desperate double fist jam, the route ends with 25 feet of tipped out number 6 cams. 
It was a great trip and my back really hurts! I made some new friends, saw some amazing landscapes, and onsite all three climbs. 
              (Messa and Guy)